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-----> Read Reloading Part 1

Reloading can be a lot of fun and a great hobby, but like so many things in life a little carelessness can be hazardous. Proper handling of reloading components and observing a few rules can make dangerous situations very rare.

Before we get into the basics here are a few rules to learn and obey before starting reloading.

1. Don't be in a hurry. Load only when you can devote time and attention to what you are doing and avoid any distractions. Develop a routine and stick to it.
2. Keep your loading area clean, neat and orderly.
3. If you have powder and primers you cannot identify, don't use them. Dispose of
them in a safe manner. Keep powder and primers in their original containers.
4. Store powder and primers out of reach of children. Do not store them together in the same area.
5. Do not smoke while reloading. I believe the consequences are obvious
6. Read the instructions you received with your equipment. Follow them, don't take short cuts.
7. Observe the warnings about maximum loads. Start low and work up.
8. Keep reloading records in a book.
9. Label each box of reloads with loading data.

Now that you have your reloading tools and have purchased bullets, brass, powder and primers, the next thing you need is a place to set up and begin. A basement room, a corner in the garage or the storage place under the stairs are common places; or wherever your wife will allow. You will need a sturdy bench that will not move around and adequate lighting is a must. Once the bench is ready and you have organized your tools for convenient operation you are ready to begin.

Shown above is a reloading manual and the author's reloading book.  Good book keeping is essential in maintaining consistent loads.

Step one. Clean and inspect your brass. With new brass this step is not as critical, but when using cases that have been fired it is essential. The easiest way to clean your brass is with a vibratory case cleaner available through several manufactures. Cleaning can reveal defects in cases and prevent damage to reloading dies caused by grit on the case as it enters the die. The most common defects in cases are cracks and splits. If these are detected the case must be discarded. These defects usually only appear after several loadings.

Step two. Case Lubrication. Skip this step and you will find you have a case stuck in your sizing die. Use the correct lube. Just any old oil will not do. Use case lube available where your loading equipment was purchased and follow the directions. The easiest way I have found to lubricate the cases is by simply rolling them across a pad that has the lube applied to it. A thin film is good. Too much and you will find dimples in your brass around the shoulder area where excess oil is squeezed ahead of the case as it is pushed into the die. Too little oil and you will be heading down to the store for a stuck case remover. It is also a good idea to lube the inside of the case neck with a brush so designed for that purpose. This helps reduce chatter on the case as it passes over the expander button on the way into and out of the sizing die. Again, a little lube is okay, but a lot is not. If you do lube the inside of the neck, it is not necessary to lube every case; I usually do about every third one.

Step three. Resizing. The purpose of resizing is to bring the case back to tolerances that will allow it to fit correctly in the chamber of your rifle. There are two types of sizing, full length and neck only. Full length is the most common method for getting started. We need not go into the setup and adjustment of reloading dies in the press here; this is best described in the instructions you received with your set of dies. Follow them closely. After sizing a few cases I always like to check to make sure they are going to function properly in the action. This will let you know whether your set up is correct. If the action does not close easily further adjustment is necessary. If you do not do this you may find you have loaded a lot of ammo that will not function and have to go through the process of pulling bullets, dumping powder and starting over again.

Step four. Measuring and trimming. In order to function properly in the action of your firearm the case must be a specific length. As each case is fired the case neck elongates and, depending on the cartridge, after several firings the neck needs to be trimmed back to its original length. This is best accomplished by a rotary case trimmer, which is actually a mini lathe, and checked by a case length gauge. I have found the easiest way to set up the trimmer is to keep a new unfired brass for each caliber I reload. All you have to do then is slip the cartridge into the trimmer, adjust the cutter head and lock it into place and you are set to trim back to factory specifications.

Step five. Priming. There are a number of ways to seat the primer into the case. Usually there will be a priming arm with the press you have purchased and they all work pretty well. There are also a number of hand held priming tools that let you feel when the primer is seated. I prefer these to the primer arm as I feel that I can control the pressure with which the primer is seated better. Primers should be seated around .003 to .006 below flush with the case head. This should assure that the primer is in contact with the bottom of the primer pocket. When priming make sure your hands are clean and do not have case lube or any oils on them. Such materials can ruin the primer and cause misfires. Always inspect the cases you have just primed to make sure there are no high primers in the batch. If one is found, reseat the primer to the correct depth; doing so after the powder and bullet are in place could be a real health hazard. If by chance one slips by and powder and bullet are in place, then a bullet puller must be used to remove the bullet and dump the powder before attempting to reseat the primer.

Step six. The powder charge. This is the step where careless hand loaders get into trouble. It is essential that the information contained in the reloading manual you are using be followed. Never start with maximum loads. It is recommended that you start ten percent below maximum and work up to a point where pressure signs begin to show. Every firearm handles pressure differently. A load developed in one rifle showing no signs of pressure when fired, may, in another rifle of the same caliber show excessive pressure signs. We will discuss what to look for on pressure signs further on.

The two essential tools you need in determining the correct amount of powder are a good scale and a powder measure. Remember, setting your scale and powder measure for some specific powder does not mean that by changing powders the weight will be the same. In other words, a measure set to drop five grains of Unique will not necessarily drop the same weight of another powder at the same setting. Changing powders requires re-weighing and re-setting the powder measure. When filling cases with powder I like to fill a number of them and place them in a loading block. This allows for visual inspection to make sure the powder level is the same in all cases prior to seating the bullet.

Step seven. Seating the bullet. The correct seating depth can be determined using a full length, empty, unprimed case with the bullet seated out too far. Chamber the dummy round carefully and extract it from the chamber. Look for marks on the bullet made by the rifling. Seat the bullet in slightly farther, then color the bullet with a marker and re chamber the dummy round. Continue this process until the rifling marks do not appear. The seating depth obtained just short of the rifling usually gives the best accuracy in most rifles. Some rifles may shoot better with some slight variation to this, but this is a good guide to work with.

Magazine length may have a bearing on overall length of the cartridge and may require seating the bullet deeper to accommodate a short magazine. After I have determined how deep the bullet should be seated with the dummy round I usually make up four or five more dummy rounds and cycle them through the action to make sure they operate smoothly prior to loading the finished product.  A complete discussion of setting your seating die, crimping, seating depth for bullets used in tubular magazines etc. Are usually in the instructions with your dies or in your reloading manual. Follow them closely.

Trouble Shooting. A quick review here should help to eliminate any problems.
1. After sizing, chamber a dummy round to see if everything operates smoothly.
2. Check for high primers
3. Visually inspect powder levels before seating bullets.
4. Seat bullets carefully and cycle dummy rounds through to check for smooth operation
5. Work up to maximum loads. I usually load in increments of one half grain, three to five rounds per increment until signs of pressure appear. Usually the first sign to appear is around the primer. If you look at where the firing pin strikes the primer, you will see the primer begin to flatten and the indentation made by the firing pin will have ridges around it instead of being smooth and rounded. See photos. At this point I stop. Going up another half grain accomplishes little.

Other signs can be hard extraction. A ring formed around the case just forward of the head of the case, and blown primers are the most common signs. I have always found that watching the primer has been the best way for me to see the first signs of pressure.

Reloading can be a great hobby. It will give you ammunition equal to or better than most factory loads at a fraction of the cost. By following the rules and using good common sense it is safe and will give you many hours of enjoyment.

-----> Read Reloading Part 1