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Hunting Illustrated Spring 2002: North of the Border

Home > Magazine > Spring 2002 Issue > North of the Border
Monarch of Deadman's Bay
by Robert M. Ortiz
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The pursuit of a trophy brown bear turned out to be the hunt of a legend.  But then again, we're talking about Kodiak Island...home of BIG BEARS!

It was springtime on Kodiak Island. We had just arrived at the bear camp of master Alaskan guide Tom Kirstein that sets nestled in the alders at the head of Deadman's Bay. Professional hunting guide Jeff Poor assisted Tom. The bear camp consisted of the main cabin and two small 12- x 9-foot structures that each sleep two persons. My girlfriend Tonya and I would reside here for the next 10 days of this long awaited hunt.

    Shortly after arriving, I was in the little cabin and spotted a faded brown colored book, "Monarch of Deadman's Bay." I decided to read this tale of a mighty Kodiak that once roamed and ruled the bay, despite the fact that it had one-half of its right front paw bitten off. I could only imagine what it would be like to meet the Monarch.

    Tom was outspoken and knew all there was to know about hunting Kodiak browns. Jeff was quiet and usually kept to himself. At night, Tom would share bear hunting facts and stories with us. Tom was to guide the other hunter in camp and Jeff would be our guide. Though he was quiet, Jeff proved to be one of the best guides and
hunters in Alaska.

    For this hunt I had decided to use my 30-378 Weatherby equipped with a 3.5-14x52mm Leupold LPS scope and my favorite bullet, the 180 grain Barnes X. It was tuned to shoot dead-on at 350 yards. During springtime the bears on Kodiak prefer the hillsides and cover of the alder and willow bushes. Hunting them requires many hours of glassing and spotting. We brought 10 x 50 Swarovski binoculars and a 20 x 60 Swarovski spotting scope. Hunting the drainages on Kodiak during springtime means snowmelt, deep rivers and fast running water. We were equipped with waist high Gore-Tex waders and separate wading boots for hiking. The inter-day weather changes on Kodiak are phenomenal. We left camp one morning under a clear blue sky. Two hours later the sun's still out, but it's raining. Then an hour later, the sky is black and the wind is blowing straight through you. Finally, the wind stops, it starts snowing and the sun comes out. It was good we had the proper "all purpose" clothing, a definite "must have" on Kodiak.

    On day one we spotted two bears across the bay approximately two miles away near the top of a 4,000-foot snow-covered hillside. We watched them until they disappeared into a deep drainage. We also spotted about 10 mountain goats on the hillside just below the area where we initially spotted the bears. The second day of hunting was so windy that it was very difficult to hold our binoculars steady enough to glass the area. We spotted several different bears just below a rock-faced hillside approximately a mile-and-a-half away, but a circular blowing wind made it impossible to stalk them.

    The third day proved even worse. I had never been in wind that fierce. So much for our "all purpose" clothing as it seemed we had nothing on. The fourth day appeared like a gem. The skies were clear blue and it was warm. I soon learned the inter-day weather on Kodiak can rapidly change from one extreme to the next. Despite the nasty weather, we did spot two medium-sized (eight to nine foot) bears late in the evening.

    Our luck would change during breakfast on the fifth day as Tonya suggested we take a longer hike and get some additional exercise instead of hunting only down bay. Jeff agreed and we decided to hike into the area that accommodates several rivers draining into the bay. After about a six-mile hike and crossing several deep and fast-running rivers we stopped and glassed the area. The wind picked up and blew so hard that glassing for longer than 20 minutes at a time was unbearable. Nevertheless, hard-core Jeff kept glassing in spite of the wind. Then it happened . . . Jeff spotted a good-sized (nine-plus-foot) brown on the other side of the drainage approximately 600 yards away. The bear had been sunning in an area that made it impossible to see him with the naked eye. We watched for about 25 minutes when he suddenly got up and quickly began traveling further up the draw that led into a deep canyon. About 100 yards behind him in the brush we saw a very large dark brown-colored creature; we now realized why he was moving. When the creature became fully visible it was one of the great monarchs. He was pursuing the nine-footer looking for his next meal. The next thing I heard was Jeff saying, "Lets get a movin'!" We had only a few minutes to try and reach a point that would enable me to get a shot at the great brown before he pursued the nine-footer into the bottom of the canyon.

      In seconds we had our packs and rifles slung over our backs and we were
traveling through the brush as if it didn't exist. Nothing was going to stop my shot at this bear. Perhaps I spoke too soon. As we proceeded to our would-be vantage point we ran out of mountain. Two feet in front of us was a 60-foot drop. I knew this was it. I could either shoot from here, or let the great bear get away. Off came our packs and I quickly set them in front of me for a shooting rest. I turned the adjustable objective on my scope to between 300 and 400 yards and loaded the chamber hoping the big brown would give us a shot. Fortunately for us, the nine-footer had traveled to the corner of the drainage approximately 350 yards away and then down into the canyon. We hoped that the big brown would follow. He came out of the brush and proceeded to the same drop-off point. Jeff quickly ranged it at 350 yards. The brown reached the edge of the rim and picked up his nose in an attempt to catch the smell of the nine-footer. Wow, what a monster he was! I laid the cross hairs on his right front vitals and pulled the trigger. I knew it was a hit as he picked up his right front leg. He then turned around and commenced running straight away from us for the brush. My only shot was from the rear at about 365 yards. I laid the cross hairs square on his back end and released the second shot. It was another direct hit as the bear's back end dropped to the ground. Once again he was up heading for the brush. I laid the cross hairs on his left front vitals and released the third shot. Another direct hit as the bear's front crashed into the ground. He slowly entered the brush and collapsed.


The Monarch sqared 10 feet 7 inches and carries an impressive Boone & Crockett score of 29 3/16

         We stayed put and glassed the big brown for about 45 minutes. This was not a bear that we wanted to meet up with in the brush should he be alive. After gathering enough confidence that he was no longer alive, we proceeded to the other side where the bear lay. As we cautiously proceeded towards the big brown I began to realize just how incredibly big he really was.

    The bear's head was so large that I could not wrap my arms around the sides of it and the widths of its forearms were an easy 26 inches. His coat was a beautiful dark brown with cinnamon highlights and it didn't have a single rubbed area.

After the picture taking, handshakes, etc., we commenced the skinning process. As I lifted the bear's right arm, my eyes froze on the bear's paw. I could not believe what I was seeing. One-half of the bear's right paw was missing, just like the Monarch's!
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